Take a pattern from a mink with your own hands. How to sew a beret with your own hands from fur or fabric

Women have always paid great attention to hats. And until now, there is a strong tendency to make them yourself. This is easily explained, because a thing made independently and with soul will not only be unique, but also be worn with great pleasure. In this article, we will look at how to sew a beret - a very popular classic headdress. Berets can be very different: voluminous and compact, feminine and strict, from a variety of materials, so everyone can easily choose a suitable model for themselves.

Making a pattern

Many people knit hats, but it’s much easier to sew a beret. The beret pattern usually consists of a bottom, a side (crown) and a chestnut (band).

This drawing is suitable for size 58 head circumference. If you need a different size, then you should change the length of the band in the drawing.

Transfer the cut pieces to the fabric of your choice and cut them out, leaving a 1cm seam allowance on each side. Cover the bottom and crown with lining fabric with 1 cm allowances. The fabric for the beret should be dense enough to hold its shape well. If you plan to sew from thin fabric, then it must first be glued with non-woven fabric.

Four-piece product

This headdress can be sewn from drape, felt or other dense material.
The pattern of a drape beret consists of the following parts: 2 parts of the side, a rim, and a bottom. The board may have the same or different heights at the front and rear. The length of the headband is equal to the circumference of the head. The measurement is taken with a measuring tape. It should pass through the center of the convexity of the forehead and grasp the occipital protuberance at the most protruding point. The ends of the tape are closed in front, the distance is marked and transferred to paper. For each cut of the part, add 1 cm for the seams, and when cutting out the rim, the increase is 2-3 cm.

The lining is cut out to the same size as the bottom, also leaving seam allowances. The headband in this version is sewn without lining fabric. To decorate the beret, a bow is cut out of leather of a suitable shade. To sew a Scottish beret, you need to take plaid fabric.

Stitching the parts

First, sew the side. To do this, combine its front sides and grind it down. The finished seam is folded to one side and stitched, retreating 3-5 mm. When sewing a headdress from astrakhan fur or other fur, such a stitch is not used. The next stage is sweeping and stitching the side and bottom. Having connected the parts, make a decorative stitch on the front side.

Sewing order

Let's look at how to sew a beret with your own hands using this pattern:

• Sew the bottom and sides from the main fabric. Do the same with the lining fabric pieces.
• Iron the seams on the main fabric and stitch on both sides with decorative stitches at a distance of 2-5 mm.
• Cover the band with non-woven material to avoid deformation during wearing, fold it in half lengthwise and stitch its short sides to form a circle.
• Sew the band to the finished beret top, placing it right side to the back of the top. Turn the band right side out and stitch it to cover the stitching seam.
• Insert the lining into the beret with the wrong side facing the wrong side of the main fabric, baste it, and then hem it along the inner edge of the band.
• Decorate the band or crown of the finished beret with a bow, rhinestones or other trim.

Video of sewing a beret yourself

Cap – Eugenia Kim, RUB 11,075/$245

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HATS

Details:

1. Bottom - 1 piece;

2. Crown - 2 parts;

3. Band - 1 piece.

Job:

First stitch between

cut the sides of the wall parts with a 0.7 cm seam. Press the seams. After this, stitch the walls to the bottom. Iron the seam towards the walls, stitch to the edge or press it. Treat the lining in the same way. Fold the parts from the main and lining fabrics with the wrong sides inward, aligning the lower sections. Sew the narrow sides of the band (it will take the shape of a ring), and press the seam. Sew the band to the bottom edge of the beret, folding it right side together with the lining. Turn the band onto the front side of the beret and stitch it onto the wall, covering the stitching seam. If the band is made of leather, make its inner side from the main fabric (cut the part according to the shape of the leather band and stitch it to it along the longitudinal side, folding the right sides inward). Steam the beret carefully and attach the finishing parts.

Black velvet beret with a bow, secured with a brooch. It is recommended to sew such a beret from soft pile fabrics that drape well - velvet, loose drape. The bow is made of grosgrain ribbon in a contrasting color. The leather band also serves as a decorative function. The lining is best made from a thin lining or voile-type fabric.

Details:

1. Bottom - 1 piece;

2. Crown - 2 parts;

3. Band - 2 parts;

4. Bow - 1 piece.

Job:

First, sew the sides of the wall parts together using a 0.7 cm seam. Press the seams. After this, stitch the walls to the bottom. Press the seam towards the walls, stitch to the edge or press it. Treat the lining in the same way. Fold the parts from the main and lining fabrics with the wrong sides inward, aligning the lower sections. Sew the narrow sides of the band (it will take the shape of a ring), and press the seam. Sew the band to the bottom edge of the beret, folding it right side together with the lining. Turn the band onto the front side of the beret and stitch it onto the wall, covering the stitching seam. If the band is made of leather, make its inner side from the main fabric (cut the part according to the shape of the leather band and stitch it to it along the longitudinal side, folding the right sides inward). Steam the beret carefully and attach the finishing parts. An unusual decoration is a large decorative bow, which can be made from bright drape or velor. Along the middle line marked on the pattern, pull the bow detail with a thread or fold it with several soft folds and attach it to the beret with a brooch. Since it is recommended to make the bow from non-fraying fabrics, there is no need to process the edge. The band is made of artificial leather.

Details:

1. Bottom - 1 piece;

2. Crown - 2 parts;

3. Band - 1 piece.

Job:

First, sew the sides of the wall parts together using a 0.7 cm seam. Press the seams. After this, stitch the walls to the bottom. Press the seam towards the walls, stitch to the edge or press it. Treat the lining in the same way. Fold the parts from the main and lining fabrics with the wrong sides inward, aligning the lower sections. Sew the narrow sides of the band (it will take the shape of a ring), and press the seam. Sew the band to the bottom edge of the beret, folding it right side together with the lining. Turn the band onto the front side of the beret and stitch it onto the wall, covering the stitching seam. If the band is made of leather, make its inner side from the main fabric (cut the part according to the shape of the leather band and stitch it to it along the longitudinal side, folding the right sides inward). Steam the beret carefully and attach the finishing parts. The rigid beret is made of drape, backed with two layers of adhesive padding. The gasket is necessary in order to clearly fix the cone-shaped shape of the beret. The adhesive pad can be replaced with a regular linen border, but in this case the fabric parts must be carefully quilted with the border using oblique stitches in a circle so that the stitches are not visible from the front side. When stitching, do not tighten the thread too much. The seam on the bottom of the beret should be covered with a decorative piece made of drape or leather. The band is made from the main fabric. The lining is normal.

Details:

1. Wedge - 6 parts;

2. Visor - 2 parts;

3. Band - 2 parts.

Job:

1) Having made a pattern from paper, apply it to the fabric.

2) Sew the wedges on the wrong side.

3) We cut out the lining according to the patterns, stitch it and sew it to the cap on the wrong side.

Sew the visor along the outer contour and stitch at a distance of 0.75 cm. Sew it to the crown. Sew the band to the crown.

Details:

1. Middle part - 2 parts;

2. Side part - 2 parts;

3. Visor - 2 parts.

Job:

We make a pattern on paper, transfer it to fabric, cut out and sew first the two middle parts, and then the two side ones. Let's connect them together. We make the lining according to the same pattern as for the main parts. We sew the lining and sew it to the cap. Then we sew together the two parts of the visor and sew it to the cap. The visor is reinforced with cardboard or plastic spacer. The lower edge of the cap is finished with grosgrain ribbon.

Details:

1. Bottom - 1 piece;

2. Fields - 1 detail;

3. Side part of the crown with a bend - 1 piece.

Job:

Reinforce all parts of the top with a thick adhesive pad. Sew the wall parts together, press the seams up. Sew the bottom to the top of the wall, stitch the lining and sew to the facing. Lay out the lining parts along the top parts, connecting the wall parts. Stitch the fields, right side to right side.

Details:

1. Bottom - 1 piece;

2. Crown - 2 parts;

3. Fields - 2 details.

Job:

All parts are lined with thick fabric. Line the margins. Cut out the lining according to the same patterns, but with an oblique placement of the grain thread. First, the parts of the crown are sewn together, then they are sewn to the bottom. The fields are sewn to the finished head.

Details:

1. Wedge - 6 parts;

2. Fields - 2 details.

Job:

Make a pattern on paper and transfer it to fabric. Sew the wedges first. From the lining fabric, make a pattern using the same patterns and sew to the crown of the hat. But first sew on the brim. Line up the margins and lining. You can raise the brim both at the front and at the back.

The material is compiled from the book by L. Stoykova “Hats. We sew. We knit" and provided by Galina Dozhdeva (Lina)

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Berets

is still in fashion, especially if you won’t see a beret like yours on anyone else. This is possible if you sew the beret yourself.

How to sew a beret?

It's not difficult and fast. Even if your sewing experience is limited only to school labor lessons, the final result depends only on your desire and diligence.

Choose the material you like for the beret. It can be drape, velvet, fleece, fur. I offer a pattern for a beret made of soft material

on a head with a diameter of 56 cm. For a better look of the beret, we sew it with a lining. You can get creative with the band, make it out of leather or fur.

So, detailed instructions on how to sew a beret. (Don't forget to iron the seams after each stitching operation.)

1. Transfer the pattern to the fabric, adding a seam allowance of about 1 cm.
2. I'll cut the fabric.
3. We begin to grind off the crown part, and remember about the seams.
4. We sew the bottom of the beret to the crown, and the seams...
5. We repeat all 4 points for the lining.

1. Fold the front and lining parts of the beret inside out and carefully sew them together.
2. All we have to do is cleverly sew on the band. Be careful! It’s better to measure seven times, and then stitch
   first to the bottom of the crown, turning the beret lining with the right side on. Then turn the band face outwards, inside out towards the crown, and sew along the top edge with a beautiful stitch.

Salt, that is, decorate the beret to taste!

To complete a woman's costume, a headdress - a beret or cap - is often missing. And sometimes, the beret becomes the main decoration of the entire costume ensemble. Buying a ready-made beret is quite difficult, since it is difficult to match the required model, color, tone, shape, etc. Therefore, you can try to sew a beret with your own hands, especially since the beret pattern is not at all complicated, and the technology for sewing a soft-shaped beret does not require a special sewing machine.

I offer you two beret patterns. The first one is somewhat similar in shape to a male airborne military beret, or an artist’s beret. This is a fairly universal pattern, making small adjustments will allow you to sew various women's, children's and even men's berets. The second beret pattern is more likely intended for sewing a cap with a visor, but such a cap made of soft fabrics and without too hard padding in the visor can also be called a beret.

For sewing a beret with your own hands, soft-shaped berets are the most accessible. They are easy to make, do not require special sewing equipment, are comfortable to wear and complement a modern women's suit well. To sew a soft-shaped beret, you can use a wide variety of materials: leather, suede, drape fabrics, including fur skins. Before sewing a beret, you must check (clarify) the pattern. First, cut out the details of the beret from inexpensive thick fabric. When trying on, make the required adjustments to the pattern and, if necessary, change the cut of the “trial” sample. And only after this can you transfer the exact pattern of the beret parts onto the prepared fabric, fur or other material and begin sewing.

Men's berets

The beret is also part of the military uniform. Sewing a headdress on your own is especially chic for those beginning the service, so let’s look at how to sew a paratrooper’s beret. You will need:

• Cloth (150 cm wide) – 30 cm
• Lining fabric (90 cm wide) – 30 cm

A beret for a paratrooper can be sewn using the following pattern:

Cut out 1 piece of the bottom (numbered 1 in the diagram), 2 pieces each of the crown (number 2) and the band (number 3). The technology for sewing such a beret is similar to that discussed above. It is recommended to make the band from artificial leather.

Takes from wedges

Berets made from 8 identical wedges, cut according to the following pattern, also look very good:

• The parts should be cut strictly along the grain thread in one direction. When cutting, be sure to leave seam allowances.
• Sew the details along the contour with a contrasting thread. This will allow your product to look much neater and the seams to be smoother.
• In addition to the 8 wedges, cut out a headband 58.5 cm long (with a 2.5 cm seam allowance) and 5 cm wide.
• Cover the wedges from the lining fabric.

Let's find out how to sew berets from wedges:

• Sew all the wedges in pairs, and then the resulting pieces, pressing all the seams.
• Sew the headband along the narrow sides so that it forms a circle, iron the seam.
• Fold the headband in half lengthwise, baste and iron.
• Baste the headband to the beret, lowering the beret by 1.5 cm.
• Sew the headband and beret. It will be more convenient if, when grinding, the beret is at the bottom and the rim is at the top.
• Sew wedges from lining fabric in the same way.
• Turning the beret inside out, hand sew the lining to it.

Wedge option

When sewing a beret from wedges, beginning craftswomen make 2 mistakes. Either they cut out 6 elements, and then the headdress ends up with protruding corners, or they sew it from 10 wedges, which results in too many seams. The best option is an 8-piece model . The beret pattern from wedges consists of a bottom and a side.

Constructing a pattern

Not any fabric is suitable for such a beret, but only dense fabric that can hold its shape. The lining is made of cotton or lining material. Before cutting out the wedges, the lining is glued to the base material from the wrong side. It is important that all wedges point in the same direction. There is no need to turn the fabric on its side or upside down, otherwise the finished beret may look uneven. The fact is that some fabrics change shade when turned, especially plush, wool and drape.

Fur beret

Many women would like to have a particularly warm beret that matches their fur coat, so let’s look at how to sew a beret from fur. You can choose any beret pattern, but when cutting it is important to take into account the direction of the pile on the cut details - it should be directed in one direction. Another important feature when working with fur is that you do not need to iron the seam allowances. Instead, you can straighten them using scissor rings. If lint gets stuck in the seams, carefully pull it out with a needle. The lining is attached to the fur beret manually using a hidden seam.

So, after reading this article, you can make your own beret to suit every taste. Sewing a beret is quite inexpensive, it is simple and quick. You also learned how to sew a military beret, so you can please your cadet son or conscript with a beret made with love.

When it’s already cool outside, but it’s still too early for hats, you can complement your image with a beautiful beret. Don’t think that this headdress is yesterday. A correctly selected beret can highlight your image, and sometimes even become its highlight.

But what if the berets you like don’t fit, and the sizes you need don’t look the way you’d like? Let's sew a beret with our own hands, using different materials and patterns!

Hats made of different materials

Sewing a fur product is different in that you need to take into account which direction the pile is directed. The patterns can be used the same as for sewing drape or plush berets. Typically, such models are cut without a visor.

The seam allowances are not ironed out, but simply smoothed, simultaneously pulling out the hairs with a needle. The lining is connected to the fur piece using a hidden stitch. There are also some nuances depending on the type of fur and fabric. For example, when creating a pattern for a beret from astrakhan fur, you don’t have to look at the direction of the pile, because it grows in different directions, but with other furs you need to be more careful.

A mink beret is a warm, light and amazingly beautiful product. It will not protect from the wind, but it will warm your head in the cold, and the owner of such a model will always catch admiring glances. The top is cut out by taking the head circumference measurement. The side is also designed according to the size of the head.

Sewing a mink beret comes down to the fact that first the bottom is assembled from wedges, and then the side is sewn to them. The insulated lining can be made from fur twill.

How to sew a beret with your own hands

The fundamental principle in sewing a beret is to take measurements correctly and take into account the characteristics of the material taken as a basis. To correctly design a pattern, it is not necessary to use patterns; it is enough to remember the school formula for determining the radius of a circle:

R=naked/2π. Explanation for the formula:

• R – radius;
• head – head circumference;
• π – value equal to 3.14.

Sewing a beret can be done according to the general step-by-step instructions:

1. Take your measurements. To do this, measure the circumference of your head by drawing a centimeter through the frontal tuberosity and the protrusion on the occipital bone.
2. According to the measurement, open the cache-pen - a dimensional strip 5-6 cm wide, which determines the size of the beret. Your comfort when using the finished product depends on how accurately this measurement is taken and the cache-pin is cut.
3. Take a standard circle for the base of the beret - 30 cm in diameter. Depending on the pattern, leave it whole or cut it into segments.
4. Open the shelf. The pomp of the beret depends on its height.
5. When creating a pattern, be sure to take seam allowances into account. For dense fabrics take 8-10 mm, for loose fabrics - 10-15 mm. If the fabric is too loose, it makes sense to use.
6. Sew the base elements if it consists of segments.
7. Sew the shelf to the base.
8. Cut the bottom of the shelf every 10-15 mm, not reaching 3 mm to the seam with the base - this is important for rounding the beret.
9. Process the edges of the cache-pin, connect it into a ring, fold it in half and sew it to the hole for the head.
10. Turn the beret inside out and onto your face. Smooth out the seams with the edge of a pair of scissors or lightly moisten the beret with steam and hang it straight on a mannequin or jar.
11. If necessary, you can sew the lining using the same principle, securing it inside the beret using invisible stitches.
12. Decorate your beret as you please and wear it to your health!

Did you know? Once you have removed a pin, write down its indicators on a piece of paper and don’t lose it. The measure will come in handy if you want, for example, to sew a hat - it is universal for all hats.

Important!

If you want, taking it as a “first try” is not a good idea. In this case, it is better to try, including a mini-beret in the ensemble. You’ll train your hand and won’t ruin the material for the beret itself.

There are a lot of patterns for beret patterns. You can use any, but different patterns require different materials for sewing. We have selected the optimal combination of shape and texture.

Beret from drape

This beret is quite dense, it can be sewn without a lining, which makes the work much easier. Even a novice seamstress can sew a beret from a drape with her own hands, using the following pattern:

Drape is an unpretentious fabric,

its edges do not fray, which simplifies sewing. For such material, it is enough to provide 0.8 cm allowances in the pattern. For sewing, the exact measurement of the head is used - the material does not stretch. Drape berets are made from a single base, without dividing it into segments, which also simplifies sewing.

Felt beret

Felt is a thin felt that is an ideal material for creating textured hats. A felt beret is warm but breathable, which is important in the mid-season. It is recommended to sew a felt beret according to the following pattern:

The double bottom of this product eliminates the need to use a lining, which makes the sewing process easier. Good felt hardly frays, but we recommend calculating allowances of 1 cm.

The bottom can be taken as one piece, but a felt beret looks much better if you sew it from 4 segments. It is convenient to decorate felt berets with flowers made from leftover material; you can add beads or seed beads.

Fur beret

To sew a fur beret with your own hands, use a pattern without a shelf. Use the standard cut of the cachepin, and for the base, cut out the following petals:

The more segments you make, the narrower these petals will be. To understand what it looks like, look at the drawing of a beret with 8 segments:

Please note that the pile on a fur beret must be located in one direction, and such a headdress definitely needs a lining, sewn with invisible stitches to the fur base.

Beret made of fabric

This beret can be sewn from old things made from knitwear (jackets or sweaters). To do this, you need very little - to be able to sew knitted parts. You can also make an ultra-fashionable beret simply using the technique of patchworking jeans.

Fabric berets lie beautifully on the head, especially if, when cutting, you slightly shift the center of the inner circle a little away from the center of the base. Use a pattern of 5 beret wedges and one base:

Cut the cache-pin according to generally accepted principles, 15-20 mm knitwear stretches. Don’t forget to sew the lining exactly according to your measurements, otherwise the beret will come out cold.

Video with master class lessons on sewing a beret

The video shows how to sew a leather beret. It describes in detail what needs to be prepared to make such a headdress.

The video shows the process of sewing a light summer beret made of cotton fabric. It is shown in detail how to construct a wedge pattern for such a beret.

This video clearly shows how to sew a mink beret from 8 wedges. The beret is made from two old mink hats.

This video shows how to sew a stylish felt beret in 20 minutes and how to wear it correctly, taking into account the shape of your face.

What's good about berets?

The beret is a universal demi-season headdress that can emphasize the advantages and hide the imperfections of the oval face. Easy to sew and decorate, the beret will decorate any women's wardrobe. Berets are suitable for both coats and jackets - it all depends on the color and design. A correctly selected beret will be the highlight of your look.

Write in the comments if our tips helped you?

Fur hats and berets are similar, but have significant differences. This headdress is a soft cap without a visor and side parts, usually widened at the top and narrowed at the bottom. It can cover the ears or be only on the head. Functionality depends on the style and material. Examples are shown in the photo.

When choosing a factory product, you need not only to follow fashion, but also to know which variety suits a certain type of face. Any round hat visually lengthens the look. Therefore, it is not recommended to be worn by girls with an oval face type.

With visor

Despite the fact that the visor characterizes a cap or cap, it can also be present on berets. The barely noticeable length adorns the face and does not cover it at the same time.

Round

The most common model that can be found in stores. It is easy to sew, which is why it is so popular among other products. Women's berets made of mink, arctic fox, and sable look ideal with leather outerwear, down jackets and winter jackets. With a mink coat, it must be selected carefully. It should be a tone darker or lighter than the outerwear.

Volume

Women's fur berets themselves provide additional volume to the head due to the pile. The longer it is, the more impressive the headdress looks. When purchasing such an accessory, you do not need to decorate it with various decorations. They will only spoil the image and impression of the sophistication of the texture of the material.

With elastic band

This type of model fits perfectly on the head and does not fall off when wind or movement occurs. Typically, a wide elastic band is used along the edge of the factory product.

With decor

Various decorations are added to the look if the headdress has thin and not long pile. Various brooches, flowers, pendants are placed on the side.

Good to know! Manufacturers cannot do without blanks. This item follows the shape of the head and is designed for sewing hats.

Popular models of mink berets for winter 2021

Some women put such a feminine and very beautiful product on the far shelf. It's time to get it out of there, because this season it is gaining popularity again. Mink berets are worn with pleasure not only by older ladies, but also by young fashionistas. In 2019-2020, they are one of the basic items in a woman's wardrobe. There are several very popular models, let's try to talk about them and find out what they look like.

Stylists believe that the beret by itself is a very stylish and feminine thing. Made from natural mink fur, it does not tolerate proximity to catchy and bright prints. Girls choose such a headdress due to the fact that it demonstrates luxury, but does not impose it on everyone around them.

Of course, there are many models, complemented by decor. These can be light, nondescript brooches that will serve as accent pieces. It's rare to see complex tailoring this winter. The fact is that it makes the headdress tasteless and looks awkward on young fashionistas.

The simplest and most affordable model is the classic mink beret, which will be very fashionable this season. The product has a very simple design, which is not burdened by a complex cut. It is precisely these models that fashion designers most often complement with decorative inserts. Products of this type made from black or gray mink are very popular.

For young girls who want to make their look for the winter of 2019 very original, stylists recommend trying to wear a beret with voluminous edges. Such products are massive and very voluminous, which is why some fashionistas call them “artist’s beret.” Made from mink, it goes perfectly with a variety of outerwear options. Such models, unlike classic ones, are very warm and their designers rarely decorate them with decorative inserts.

If you don’t want to spend a long time looking for a suitable product, then it’s time to take a closer look at the simplest style - the mink “tablet” beret. Such models fit perfectly into the image and are suitable for all girls without exception. A similar headdress can be worn with loose hair, but it will not ruin your hairstyle.

Look at the models of mink women's berets in the photo, which illustrates all the style trends:

You can dilute your creative image with an even brighter detail and place the right accents with the help of a voluminous beret made of soft mink fur. Such products can often be seen made of bright materials. The voluminous style is perfect for plump girls who want to make their face visually smaller.

A new product is knitted mink berets, which have gained great popularity this season. Such products are distinguished by their original style and excellent quality. Girls choose such models due to the fact that they go well with other attributes of a woman’s wardrobe.

The following photo shows fashionable new mink berets, among which you can easily choose a headdress for your winter look:

How to sew it yourself

Women's mink fur berets are not cheap. It’s easier to sew a headdress yourself. No special skills are required.

• The direction of the pile should be one way from bottom to top.
• Cut the parts so as not to damage the pile. Otherwise, you will get bald spots, the seam and traces of cutting with scissors will be visible.
• The headdress requires lining fabric.

To add volume and maintain shape, the easiest way is to sew a beret from several segments, which are all connected at the top of the head.

Tools and materials

To work you will need to have all the items on hand. For sewing you need to prepare:

• scissors;
• needles and thread;
• lining fabric;
• blade;
• thimble;
• sewing machine;
• measuring tape, ruler, pencil or chalk.

Before you start sewing with your own hands, you need to take measurements from your head. You should also not forget about small seam allowances when cutting the material. The craftswoman will have to sew without a blank.

Round beret pattern

On a piece of paper, draw a wedge that looks like a petal. Its length should be approximately 21 cm, to the point of expansion - 8 cm. The wide part of the wedge is 11 cm. At the bottom, all the wedges are connected by a strip. An example of a fur beret pattern can be seen in the photo.

Attention! The rim that determines the size of the head is called a cashpen.

Progress

There should be no foreign objects on the table where sewing will be done. The work consists of the following stages:

• Lay out the skins in the direction of the pile and trace the pattern with a pencil or pen.
• Cut wedges according to the pattern. You should cut with a blade in weight, lifting the fur.
• Take a needle and thread and connect all the wedges with a seam over the edge, making two parts of 4 wedges each.
• Connect two parts from the center. It should not be displaced.
• Make a rim 5-6 cm wide. Make marks on it so you know where to attach the wedge.
• Treat the strip with bias tape, that is, stitch the fur headband with lining fabric on a sewing machine along the very edge.
• Attach the rim to the wedges.
• The lining is cut using the same pattern with a seam allowance of 2 cm.
• Connect the parts on the machine in the same way.
• Insert the wedge blank inside the lining and sew it to it.

Important! Many seams are done by hand, so the thread must be strong.

Often, such a women's headdress is remade from old mink hats. To do this, you will need a steamer and additional time to disassemble the product. The seams must be ripped out carefully without damaging the fur. If the lining fabric and insulation fit tightly to the mink skin, they must be disconnected from each other. Some craftsmen add a little water to simplify the process.

One of the distinguishing features of the various branches of the military is their uniform. It consists of many parts, but there is one that is the source of the greatest pride. Of course, we are talking about the headdress. For example, a paratrooper’s beret (photo below) not only covers his head from the wind and scorching sun, but is also his constant companion.

Buying a ready-made beret in our time is not considered a significant problem, but sewing this headdress yourself is considered especially chic. the paratrooper is not something particularly difficult. So if you have ever held a needle in your hands, sewing this product will not be difficult.

How to sew a beret yourself

The paratrooper's beret, a photo of which you will find in this article, is a soft-shaped product. To make it you do not need a special sewing machine or any special pads.

Since there is nothing complicated in the pattern of a paratrooper's beret, it can be built very quickly. The most important thing in the whole process is taking measurements. Here you need to be extremely careful, because if you make a mistake at this stage, all further work will go down the drain.

To check the quality of the constructed pattern, once again make sure of your own abilities and not spoil expensive fabric, it is best to first make a “test” sample from inexpensive fabric. This way you can eliminate all possible flaws and take into account your mistakes when sewing the “main” model.

Choosing fabric

The quality of the paratrooper's beret, the pattern of which we will look at a little lower, will greatly depend on what fabric it will be sewn from.

For the summer option, you can opt for cloth or thick cotton. If you want a warmer model, thick cashmere or thick fleece is quite suitable.

Well, if you want to sew a beret not for a real military man, but, for example, for a children’s party, then the fabric can be any. The main thing is that the product resembles the original in style and color.

We sew a beret from knitwear

One of the thin and stretchable materials is knitwear; you need to work with it carefully and do not forget to adjust the lining. Otherwise, there are no special notes when working with this material.

Make your own and wear a fur beret from mink, or any other fabric - knitwear, drape, corduroy and others. An item made by yourself will give you exclusivity and uniqueness, everything is in your hands! Well, if it doesn’t work out or you don’t have enough time, then it’s better to go to the store and buy a beret made of mink, fur or any other material.

Taking measurements

In order for the pattern of a paratrooper's military beret to turn out correct and beautiful, you need to take the correct measurements, or rather, just one. You need to correctly determine the size of your head. To do this, you need to place it in the widest part of the skull. It should pass through the protruding point of the back of the head and capture the frontal tubercles. The number obtained as a result of measurements will be the size of the headdress. For example, if you measured 58 cm, then you will need to sew a size 58 hat.

Attention! When taking measurements, it is very important not to pull the measuring tape too tightly. Otherwise, the pattern of the paratrooper's beret will be incorrect, and the finished product will be small. At the same time, there is no need to “loosen” the measuring tape too much. In this case, the headdress will be too large and will not fit nicely.

Pattern of a beret without a visor

The paratrooper is so simple that there is no need to describe it in detail. Although the pattern presented in this article appears to show a female model, men's military berets are no different from them.

This model is also good because it instantly takes on the “correct” shape. By changing the diameter of the bottom and side, you can easily change the level of the “blockage” and achieve the desired result.

The classic paratrooper's beret has a one-piece bottom. But if this is not important for you or you have problems with the fabric, the bottom can be cut from two or four pieces. The main thing is that the end result is a circle.

Processing the edges

Regardless of whether your beret is lined or not, in order for the product to look beautiful and neat, you need to carefully process all the seams and edges. Of course, the best way to do this is with an overlocker. But if you don’t have such a unit, a regular machine with a zigzag function will do. Well, as a last resort, you can overcast the edges by hand.

In addition, you can use it to process seams. You can also “pack” all the seams and the beret will serve its owner much longer.

Sewing technology

Sewing a paratrooper's beret with your own hands is not at all difficult. Even a novice seamstress can do this. But there are still some nuances here:

• When cutting the material, do not forget to leave at least 8 mm for allowances. If you decide to sew a beret from synthetic “loose” fabric, then leave at least 1.5 cm as an allowance.
• If you decide to sew a real paratrooper's beret, then the cashpen (the measuring strip adjacent to the forehead) can be made of dense but flexible fabric. For example, you can use leather or thick dermantine. If the fabric is still too stretchy, you can glue it with thin interlining to give it rigidity.
• To make it easier to work with the cachepin, and to make the beret fit better on your head, it is best to cut the size strip on the bias.
• Since a military beret is usually lined, the bottom and sides of the headdress need to be duplicated on thin fabric. This can be regular lining material or thin knitwear.
• If possible, try to cut out the beret parts in one piece. Remember: multiple joining seams can significantly change the size of the finished product.
• If the side consists of several parts, they must first be assembled into a circle. After this, you need to stitch all the seams with a beautiful decorative stitch. At the same time, do not forget to always check the volume of the lower part with the size strip, and the upper size with the diameter of the bottom.
• The side is connected to the bottom face to face and then turned inside out. The same is done with the lining. An unstitched “window” must be left in the seam connecting the bottom and the lining. 10-12 centimeters is enough.
• Now the seam connecting the cache-pin with the side is connected face to face with the lining and stitched. Through the “window” left, the beret must be turned out, and the hole must be repaired manually or stitched.

In principle, if sewing a beret with a lining seems incredibly difficult to you, then you can abandon this idea. The paratrooper's headdress itself is made of thick fabric. Most often, it does not “crumble” or “shaggy”. Therefore, having carefully processed the seams, the beret can be worn without lining. This is especially true during the hot season. But if you want to learn how to sew the classic “like in a store” version, you will have to practice a little. In fact, there is nothing complicated about it. It’s worth a try and you will definitely succeed!

Autumn has arrived and the choice of a suitable fashionable headdress has again become relevant. Many are sure that the beret is a relic of the past, but fashion trends say otherwise. The most important thing is to choose the right beret in shape and size, but this is sometimes quite difficult to do. It is much better to sew a beret with your own hands. To do this, you must have a pattern to create a stylish beret from fabric. The type of beret pattern determines its shape and how it will fit. The fabric for a beret can be very different, it can be thin knitwear and suit fabric, drape and even raincoat fabric. You should choose the option that best suits your style and taste.

To get started, you should draw a pattern.

Beret design

Any beret is sewn according to a pattern, and there is nothing complicated about it. Most standard models consist of 3 parts. The main detail is the bottom, which is most often made one-piece. The other two elements of the fabric beret pattern are the band and the side (cushion). The length of the side and the diameter of the bottom depend on the size of the head. Like the band, it is a strip of fabric.

The product looks better when it is lined. If thin fabric is used, it is recommended to glue interlining on the inside. The dimensions of the lining repeat the parameters of the main pattern. Separately grind each detail with the lining.

To ensure that the top seam is flat, it is ironed and 2 additional lines are made. They must run strictly parallel to the main seam.

When the main part is ready, a cachepin is attached to it, which is a strip of fabric folded in half and stitched. It is also worth placing a non-woven lining inside the cache-pin, otherwise when worn it will become deformed and gradually stretch. The band is sewn like this:

• a lining is inserted into the main part;
• baste it around the entire circumference;
• folded and sewn with a cache-pin.

The finished beret is finished with decorative stitching. The rest of the decor is optional, because even without it the product looks quite elegant.

Craftswomen can decorate the sides or bottom with feathers, beads, rhinestones, but do not be zealous, otherwise instead of beauty you will end up with bad taste.

Let's look at the main types of patterns for a fabric beret

Takes from two parts.
This simple pattern is a circle, the circumference of which is about 10-15 cm greater than the circumference of the head. The second part of this beret is a strip of knitted fabric 7-8 cm wide and a length equal to the volume of the head. This pattern for creating a beret from fabric is made directly on the fabric, and does not cause any special problems during assembly. It is necessary to plant the cut of the circle evenly along the stitched strip. The volume of such a beret can be made larger or smaller simply by increasing the diameter of the circle.

Classic beret made of three parts.
Consists of the following parts:

• One-piece bottom
• Sides or crown
• Cashpen (band)

This model is also quite simple, and the pattern is based on head circumference measurements.

Steps to create a pattern:

• Take measurements, that is, measure the circumference of your head. It is necessary to apply a measuring tape to the center of the forehead and wrap it around the head, passing behind the occipital protuberance.
• Draw an even circle on tracing paper, equal in circumference to the measurement taken.
• Next, stepping back from it, you need to draw a circle, strictly parallel to the first one. The height of the crown depends on the size of the indentation, which can vary from 6 to 12 cm. For soft fabrics, a crown height of 6-8 cm should be preferred, and for hard ones, such as drape, a crown height of 8-12 is preferable. When cutting, a solid circle is cut out of the fabric along the larger border, then a circle without a middle along the measurement line.
• A strip of fabric for the strap is drawn, the length of which is equal to the circumference of the head, and the width is 6-8 cm.

The photo below shows an example of a pattern for size 56, with a crown height of 12 cm.
Takes from wedges.
This is a very difficult pattern to sew. The pattern of such a beret contains many details and requires special care in adjusting the seams during assembly. However, such a voluminous headdress looks the most original.

Stages of pattern construction:

• Take head circumference measurements.
• Calculate the radius of this circle using the following formula R=P/2?, where P is the circumference (i.e. head circumference).
• On A3 graph paper you need to draw a top view and a side view. To do this, draw an axis of symmetry, stepping back from the edge a little more than the radius, and draw a vertical line. Then you need to draw a horizontal line for the base of the beret equal to the circumference of the head. From the point of intersection of the horizontal and vertical, we use a compass to draw a semicircle of radius R - this will be a vertical projection. Below, we draw a circle with the same radius - we get a horizontal projection. Now you need to increase the radius by the thickness of the material, taking into account the hem and seam, otherwise the beret will be small. On the vertical projection you need to draw a silhouette line of the future beret.
• Next, you need to make a broken line from a smooth silhouette line. To do this, sequentially applying a ruler to the silhouette line, you need to draw segments approximately passing along it. The intersection points of the segments should be on the silhouette line; for convenience, they should be numbered. At these levels the width of the beret wedge is determined. The more curved the silhouette line is, the more segments need to be made.
• From the numbered points, horizontal lines must be drawn on the vertical projection to the vertical axis. On a horizontal projection, these lines will create circles. It is enough to draw not entire circles, but only parts of them, the size of which depends on the intended number of wedges.
• It is necessary to measure the distance from the axis to the circle with a ruler, this will be its radius. Next, you should find the length of each circle using the formula R=P/2?. In order to start building wedges, you need to divide the length of the circles by the number of wedges.
• After this, the construction of the wedge begins. To do this, you need to draw a vertical axis and mark with dots on it the distances equal to the segments of the broken silhouette line (the wedge levels). At the level of these points we mark the width of the wedge, which can be determined in the top view.
• Next, you need to draw the contour of the wedge through these points. In this case, you need to check the angle at the top of the wedge. If the top of the beret should be flat, then the angle should be the same as in the top view.

To correctly connect the wedges, marks should be placed on the contour and seam allowances should be added, the amount of which depends on the type of material and the design of the seam.

The photos below show all the stages of constructing a wedge pattern:

The number of wedges is chosen depending on the material and the intended silhouette. A beret with only five wedges looks more graphic and original, its corners are clearer. With more wedges, the silhouette line of the headdress is smoother, and the seams are less noticeable. Most often, berets are sewn from 6 or 8 wedges, since it is easier to construct a pattern with an even number of wedges. More than 8 wedges lead to an unnecessary abundance of seams and make the work more difficult.

Technology of sewing a soft mink beret.

To sew a soft mink beret, we need a wooden collapsible block. Typically the block consists of five parts; the front part of the block, the rear part of the block, the sides and wedges. All parts of the block are connected with an elastic band.

In order to choose the correct size of mink skin, you need to measure the volume of the wooden block. Take a centimeter and measure the block in the largest places. The most popular volume of a wooden block, on which almost any skin can be stretched well, is 74-83 cm.

When choosing a mink skin, you should pay attention to the following important points;

1. If it is a painted skin, then the color should be uniform and there should be no unpainted areas.
2. There should be no bald spots on the skin (bald spots)
3. The pile should be shiny, without split ends.
4. There should be a good tail and paws, and the belly should not be bald.
5. We measure the length of the skin from the ears to the beginning of the tail, and its length should not be less than 76 cm.
6. The width of the skin is also important; unscrupulous furriers greatly stretch the skin in length, but at the same time it becomes very narrow and may not give the necessary stretch. If you can stick your hand into the skin up to the muzzle and easily turn the skin inside out, then the width is good.
7. You also need to pay attention to the quality of the flesh; it should be soft, stretch well and there should be no fibers sticking out of it.

Cutting the skin:

1. Turn it inside out.
2. Using a ballpoint pen, mark the lines along which we will cut the skin. We place the skin with the front paws up, from the ear we draw a line behind the paw along the edge of the skin, and then in the middle of the belly to the end of the skin.
3. We take a blade, cut the skins only with the blade and only by weight, so as not to cut the fur, along the intended line.
4. Unfold the skin, flesh side up. We cut the foot, which is located next to the cut line, and carefully trim off the excess. We outline the second paw in the shape of a boat, do not forget to check that there are no bald patches left near the paw.
5. We draw a semicircle in the upper part of the skin, we also outline the eye with a boat, so the seams will not be noticeable.
6. On the tail we mark the middle, from the beginning of the tail deep into the skin we draw a line about 15 cm. We draw a triangle to cut out the tail.
7. We cut off the muzzle along the marked line, cut out the ear, cut out the second leg, cut out the tail, remove the excess belly.

Sew the skin:

You will need size 40 cotton thread and a special needle. We make all the seams by hand, tucking the fur inside so that it does not wrinkle.

We start sewing from the foot, stitches 1 mm, place them straight, not obliquely, so that the skin can stretch. At the beginning and end of the seam we make a bartack. We do all the seams like this, sew up the ear and hind legs, do not sew them all the way and cut off the ends, rounding the line a little.

Now we connect the skin as follows, the hind legs to the muzzle. The seam of the hind legs is perpendicular to the muzzle.

Leave a section of approximately 15 cm unfinished. Cut out a corner. The skin is sewn together to create a blank for a beret.

We cut out a bias tape from the lining fabric, 8 cm wide and at least 60 cm long. We sew it in a circle to the workpiece using a furrier's machine; if there is no machine, then the seams are made by hand.

We put the workpiece on the block.

In order for the skin to fit better onto the block, we will put a plastic bag on it. Turn the workpiece inside out and wet the skin well with a spray bottle. You need to wet the seams especially well so that they stretch. Let's stretch the skin a little with our hands, but we need to do it carefully.

We put the skin on the block; if the block has a front and a back, then the central seam must be aligned with the middle of the back. We stretch the skin carefully, pulling only by the binding. We determine how wide the stand on the future beret is needed and stretch the skin accordingly.

We fix the trim in several places, nailing it to the block with nails, from the back, from the sides and in front. Now, stretching the skin evenly, we nail the entire binding to the block in a circle. All that remains is to punch through the post; to do this, take an elastic cord and use furrier’s needles to punch it through the post.

We comb the fur with a special fur brush, you can tap the seams a little to make them softer. We put the block in the dryer to dry; if there is no dryer, then we simply dry it on the table. Do not dry near radiators.

When the skin has dried, remove the needles and nails, comb the fur on the block and then disassemble the block. We remove the elastic band, take out the wedge and all other parts.

We sew the lining for the beret:

1. We cut out a strip of lining fabric 16 cm wide and 65 cm long. Circle with a diameter of 20 cm.
2. From padding polyester we cut out a circle with a diameter of 26 cm and four trapezoids with a height of 10 cm, the length of the small side is 15 cm.
3. Use a sewing machine to sew trapezoids using a zigzag stitch. Sew in the circle.
4. We sew a strip of lining fabric and sew on a circle.

Hemming the beret:

1. We tint the inside of the stand with spray paint.
2. To make the stand rigid, take a strip of lekan, sewn in a circle, and combine it with the stand on the beret. Align the edge of the stand and carefully sew the binding to the skin. We make the ties small so that they are not visible from the outside. We cut off the excess trim.
3. Sew the padding polyester lining to the edge of the binding.
4. You can make a decoration from paws or a tail, and close the small seam near the stand.
5. We turn the beret inside out, put in the lining and carefully sew it along the edge with hidden ties. Do not forget to distribute the lining over the beret so that it does not warp.

The beret is ready.